We were off to London this past week for fashion week. I always love London the most. I find it's always the most creative. There is never a cookie cutter trend in London, plus the cute guys with the great accents don't hurt either.
Sass and Bide was one of the shows on the first day and it was a refreshing show. The name of the collection was "Papa Sucre", English translation would be "Sugar Daddy." For some reason it just doesn't sound right in it's English form. This collection was a lot more simpler with amazing draping and knotting with a natural colour palette. Although it was a lot more softer and feminine then others in the past, their warrior - queen edge was still there in the detailing and styling with the belts and accessories.
Another bad ass designer that showed at London was the one-of-a-kind Vivienne Westwood for her Red Label. The usually politically charged collection wasn't all there. It seems that these days her inspiration is that she just truly enjoys designing and creating clothes. It really does show in the amazing suits, skirts, the ageless dresses and tops. The add of the sporty stripes running down the trouser gave the usual business look an casual one. Even though the collection itself may not have been so charged as in the past, fashion goers were still given brochures about the legal organization Reprieve. Vivienne Westwood was never one to fit inside of the typical box. She truly designed for herself and to get a point across and never just because it was going to sell.
This is also just what Matthew Williamson tried to do with his show. The very typical party girl designer tried to step out and do something different. "My storyboard is a girl marooned on a deserted island", was the way he explained it after the show. Take that as you may, but I can still see the party girls wearing this collection. But don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with this line. I found it great with some amazing embellished dresses. Just sometimes when you have one specific type of consumer, it can be hard to step away from that. There were lots of great cocktail dresses and redcarpet dresses, as well as pants and shorts.
Keeping on the same topic of stepping out of the box, I just have to take some time to mention Christopher Bailey's collection for Burberry. In a nut shell, it didn't go over so well with the public and fashion editors. He tried to explain the collection before the show by saying, "We can translate everything so many times and it always feels different, depending on the mood of the moment." Judging from the line and everyone's impression of it, the "mood of the moment "didn't really want to be different. The collection was titled "Heritage Biker" from what I assume to be paying homage to Thomas Burberry. Mr. Burberry was one of the first to design for England's first motor bike riders in the 1900's. Now Mr. Burberry was known to design in a time where form would follow function. I believe he would be hard-pressed these days to see that now it is really more about form that follows fashion. I can only wonder what he would have designed in this day in age. It seemed that the whole collection this season was centered around rock 'n' roll. It is great to see designers trying something new and stepping out of the box but, there is a certain way of going about it. Especially if it is already a label that is known of a specific style. You can tweak a classic, but it never fairs well when you change the whole thing.
Matthew Williamson S/S 2011
Vivienne Westwood S/S 2011
Burberry S/S 2011